Attribution
How to Get a Coin Variety or Error Attributed, Step by Step
Attribution is the moment a hunch becomes a documented identification. For a die variety it means matching your coin to a specific, published die. For an error it means having a qualified person confirm the type and mechanism. This guide lays out the path in order, so you spend your time (and submission fees) only on coins that have a real chance.
Quick answer
- Do the homework first: write observations, check raised vs recessed, and rule out machine doubling, die wear and damage.
- For die varieties, match every published diagnostic, including die markers, not just the headline feature.
- Get a second opinion from specialists (error-collector clubs and forums) using clear, honest photos before paying for anything.
- Specialist organizations such as CONECA catalog and attribute a wide range of varieties; major grading services attribute listed varieties and recognized error types on their labels.
- Check current fees, requirements and attribution lists on each service’s own website; they change.
Attribution vs authentication vs grading
Three different services often get blended together:
- Authentication answers “is this coin genuine and unaltered?”
- Grading answers “what condition is it in?” For U.S. coins that is the 1–70 Sheldon scale, plus details designations when a coin has problems like cleaning or damage.
- Attribution answers “exactly what is it?” For a variety that means a specific die (often with a catalog number); for an error, the type and sometimes the extent.
Major grading services do all three in one submission, but attribution is only printed on the label when the coin fits their recognized list. Specialist attributers focus on the “what is it” question across a much wider range of varieties. Knowing which you need determines where you send the coin. Our grading and certification overview compares the main options.
Step 1: Write observations before you name it
Before looking anything up, write down what you physically see, in plain words: where the anomaly is, whether it is raised or recessed, its shape, whether it affects the rim or edge, and the coin’s weight. This protects you from the most common trap in the hobby: seeing a headline, deciding your coin is that coin, and then reading the evidence to fit. We wrote a whole post on writing observations first because it matters that much.
Step 2: Rule out the usual suspects
Most attribution candidates fail here, and it’s far cheaper to fail at your desk than at a grading service.
| If you think you have… | Rule out first | Key test |
|---|---|---|
| Doubled die | Machine doubling, die deterioration doubling | Flat shelf-like doubling = machine doubling; rounded secondary image with notches or separation lines points to hub doubling. What to compare. |
| Repunched mintmark | Machine doubling of the mintmark, damage | A repunching shows a distinct secondary punch impression, often offset in a direction unrelated to strike doubling. |
| Die crack or cud | Scratches, rim damage | Raised and continuous on the coin. Cracks vs scratches. |
| Clipped planchet | Cut or ground coins | Blakesley effect and metal flow at the clip. Clip tests. |
| Wrong planchet / wrong metal | Plating, toning, altered coins | Weight, diameter and composition evidence. Weight evidence. |
Step 3: Match every diagnostic
For die varieties, “it looks like the picture” is not attribution. Published listings describe a specific die using several diagnostics:
- The primary feature: which letters or digits show doubling, the direction and spread of the doubling, or the position of the secondary mintmark.
- Die markers: small die chips, cracks, polish lines or gouges that identify that particular die and its states.
- Die state: whether your coin is from an early, middle or late stage of the die’s life, which can change how strong the feature looks.
- Date, mint and design type: obvious, but often missed when a coin is close in appearance to a famous variety from a neighbouring year or mint.
Use the standard published references. The Cherrypickers’ Guide to Rare Die Varieties is widely used, and its numbering (the “FS” numbers) appears on many grading labels. CONECA (the Combined Organizations of Numismatic Error Collectors of America) maintains its own attribution listings, which cover many varieties beyond what general references include.
Browse die variety reference books on Amazon
Step 4: Photograph it properly
Good photos are what get you useful second opinions. Aim for:
- Full obverse and reverse, square to the lens, at modest magnification.
- A close-up of the feature with one light from a low side angle to show relief. Rotate the light if doubling appears and disappears.
- Close-ups of any die markers you used to match the listing.
- The rim and edge, particularly for planchet and striking errors.
- A photo of the coin on a calibrated scale when weight matters.
Avoid heavy sharpening and extreme zoom, which can create texture that isn’t there. Our posts on microscope settings that don’t invent detail and full edge photography go deeper.
Step 5: Ask specialists before paying
Error and variety collectors are generous with opinions when you bring clear photos and honest questions. Error-collector clubs, CONECA’s community, and dedicated error and variety forums are good places to ask. Tips that get better answers:
- Post your observations, not just your conclusion. “Rounded secondary outline on LIBERTY, spread toward the rim, die chip inside the D of the date” invites a real reply.
- Include the weight and the coin’s source if relevant.
- Don’t ask “what’s it worth?” first. Ask “what is it?” Value follows identification.
- If several experienced people say it’s machine doubling or damage, take that seriously.
Step 6: Choose where to submit
| Route | Best for | Keep in mind |
|---|---|---|
| Specialist variety attributer (e.g. CONECA’s attribution service) | Confirming die varieties, including minor and lesser-known ones | Attribution only, not encapsulation; procedures and fees change, so check their current instructions. |
| Major grading service (PCGS, NGC, ANACS) | Coins worth encapsulating; listed varieties; recognized error types | Variety only named if on their recognized list; fees, tiers and membership requirements vary. |
| Grading service plus prior specialist attribution | Newly listed or lesser-known varieties | Some services will consider a specialist’s attribution; confirm their policy first. |
| Keep raw with documentation | Low-value minor varieties and errors | Store your photos and notes with the coin; it’s still a legitimate collection piece. |
When you submit to a grading service, request the specific attribution (by its listed number where applicable) or error designation on the submission form. Services generally won’t hunt for a variety you didn’t ask about.
Step 7: Decide whether it’s worth it
Submission costs add up: fees, shipping, insurance, sometimes membership. Before you send anything, look at completed sales of the same attribution in a similar grade.
If comparable sales are thin, look at major auction-house archives as well. Our post on building an auction archive shows a simple way to track them. Remember that one high sale is not a market; see asking price is not value.
Shipping coins for attribution
- Put each coin in an inert holder (flips made for long-term storage, or a snap holder) and label it with your own reference number.
- Include a printed list with your observations and the attribution you are requesting.
- Follow the service’s packing and shipping instructions exactly, and insure the package appropriately.
- Keep your photos. If a coin comes back with a different conclusion, you’ll want a record of what you sent.
Browse archival coin flips on Amazon
To see what attributed labels look like in practice, browse certified examples and read the label wording closely:
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between attribution and grading?
Grading assesses condition and authenticity on a numeric scale (for U.S. coins, the 1 to 70 Sheldon scale). Attribution identifies what the coin is: which variety, or which error type. A grading service can do both at once, but a variety is only noted on the label if it is on that service’s list of recognized attributions.
Will a grading service attribute any doubled die I find?
Not necessarily. Grading services usually attribute varieties that appear on their own recognized lists, which tend to follow major published references. Minor or newly discovered varieties may be authenticated and graded without the variety being named. Specialist attributers catalog a much wider range.
Can I discover a new, unlisted variety?
It happens, especially with modern doubled dies, but it is rare and requires careful documentation. Specialist organizations have procedures for reviewing and listing new varieties. Expect to be asked for the coin itself or very good photos, and expect most candidates to turn out to be something else.
Is it worth attributing a minor variety?
Sometimes yes for your own records, even if it adds little market value. Before paying for any service, research sold examples of the same attribution in similar grade and weigh that against the fees. For low-value finds, a specialist’s informal confirmation is often enough.
The bottom line
Attribution rewards patience. Most of the work happens before any coin leaves your desk: careful observations, honest photos, matching every diagnostic, and listening when experienced collectors say “that’s machine doubling.” Do that and you’ll send fewer coins, waste fewer fees, and get labels that actually say what you hoped.
Then research what the attributed coin means in the market using sold listings of the same attribution, not asking prices or headlines.